Did you know that a 138-year-old ice cream brand, once revered by actress Madhubala and comedy legend Johnny Walker, is tucked away in a small shop in South Bombay’s Bohri Mohalla?
Established in 1887 by Valiji Jalalji, Taj Ice Cream has earned a loyal following. Some local residents visit regularly for a post-meal treat, while others, who have moved to different cities or countries, make it a point to stop by whenever they return to Mumbai. A new generation of customers is equally intrigued—not just by the taste but also by the traditional production method. Unlike mass-produced ice creams made in automated machines, Taj Ice Cream is handcrafted in a barrel-like ‘sancha,’ giving it the name ‘sancha ice cream.’
“Sancha is basically a mould,” explained Aamir Hatim Icecreamwala, the sixth-generation custodian of the business. He pointed to a barrel-like structure displayed in the shop, surrounded by walls adorned with newspaper clippings and a lineage chart documenting the brand’s rich history. Using the model, he described how the sancha has two compartments: a sealed copper container filled with the ice cream mixture is placed inside a barrel packed with ice and rock salt, creating a freezing environment. The mixture is then hand-churned for nearly three hours—not only freezing it but also incorporating air, resulting in a smooth texture.
Aamir Hatim Icecreamwala with his wife Almas who manages the brand’s social media and digital marketing. (Express photo by Pradip Das)
“Each batch takes about three hours. We don’t use any colour, preservatives, or milk softeners—our ice creams are essentially just milk, fruit, and sugar,” shared his wife, Almas, who manages the brand’s social media and digital marketing while also assisting her husband at the store during Ramadan when it stays open till 3 am. “Our milk comes from a friend’s cooperative dairy in Kolhapur, and we source fruits from local vendors or the Vashi market,” added Aamir.
Aamir is a Dawoodi Bohra, originally from Mandvi, Kutch. He recalls how his ancestors took a boat to Bombay over a century ago in search of better opportunities. “Mind you, ice was a luxury in India then. In the 19th century, it was imported, so my great-great-great-grandfather initially sold bite-sized pieces of pineapple, chickoo, and other fruits mixed with cold milk in clay pots,” he said.
The business started with just one flavour—mixed fruit—which remains a customer favourite to this day. Over time, it expanded to include multiple flavours. In 1961, Aamir’s grandfather, Sharafali Tayebali Icecreamwala, introduced falooda and cassata. His father, Hatim Sharafali Icecreamwala added muskmelon and guava. Today, Taj Ice Cream offers 16 flavours, including strawberry, lychee, Alphonso mango, roasted almond, chocolate chip, kesar pistachio, and more. Customers can enjoy them by the scoop or purchase batches in 250g, 500g, and 1kg sizes.
“While we keep the flavours that have become classics, we also phase out the ones that no longer appeal to customers, such as dry fruit or pistachio,” Aamir shared. Recently, he introduced two new flavours—mandarin apricot and rose with basil seeds. All 1kg batches are priced at Rs 900, while a scoop ranges from Rs 90-100.
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At present, Taj Ice Cream offers 16 flavours. While mango and custard apple remain the most popular seasonal flavours, the unexpected rising star is guava ice cream, best enjoyed with a sprinkle of red chili
For a brand with such a long legacy, there is no shortage of fascinating anecdotes. Aamir recounted how, when ice was a rare commodity, the Bombay Presidency Club would supply his family with ice blocks to make ice cream exclusively for them. “They loved our ice creams so much that when India gained independence and they were leaving for Britain, my grandfather was invited to the club and allowed to pick anything he liked. He chose glassware, which we used to serve ice cream in for a while,” he said.
Another story involves his father personally delivering ice cream to Madhubala’s home. Then there’s the tale of a royal admirer: “When the Shah of Iran visited Bombay, he stayed at the Taj Hotel but specifically requested ice cream from Taj Ice Cream and biryani from Delhi Darbar,” Aamir added with a smile.
One might wonder why such an iconic brand has not expanded into a franchise. While Aamir frequently receives inquiries about it, he is hesitant, fearing a decline in quality. “We did open two outlets in Bandra. My father managed this shop while I ran those two, and they performed well. Unfortunately, this was just a few months before the pandemic, and we had to shut them down,” he shared. However, he remains hopeful of launching another outlet in Bandra or Lokhandwala later this year. For now, the priority is shifting to a larger manufacturing unit, possibly in Mazgaon or Byculla.
“We make small batch ice creams. Once it’s over, it really is over,” he shared, adding that while on an average, they sell about 500 kg of ice cream in a month, the sale goes up to 70-80 kg per day during Ramadan. While mango and custard apple remain the most popular seasonal flavours, the unexpected rising star is guava ice cream, best enjoyed with a sprinkle of red chilli powder on top.